Sherif Shaaban (Dr_Frankenstein™)
wanna buy a new classical guitar..any advice?
Hi guys...I've been playing classical guitar since 2 years. I have an old bad-looking guitar, but I want to buy a new good quality one. Could you please tell me what to take care of while choosing the new guitar, and about the serious defects I should be aware of? Thanks :)
# 1
Go Spanish. They know how to make classical guitars. You can find some nice Spanish made ones that aren't going to require you to take out a second mortgate. I have one made by a company named Raimundo, and its very nice. I got it for about 400, though it was on sale so I paid something like $350.
What to look for... hmm... avoid the tendancy to get a classical guitar with very low action. Remember, low action is an enemy of the classical guitarist! If you're into flamenco and all that cool rasguedo (?) stuff then you might think about getting a protective clear covering over the body near the sound whole so that your nails don't damage it. Just like any guitar, pay attention to the kind of wood that goes into it, the quality of the tuning machines, etc.
As for serious defects, well I wouldn't by any guitar with any serious defects!
What to look for... hmm... avoid the tendancy to get a classical guitar with very low action. Remember, low action is an enemy of the classical guitarist! If you're into flamenco and all that cool rasguedo (?) stuff then you might think about getting a protective clear covering over the body near the sound whole so that your nails don't damage it. Just like any guitar, pay attention to the kind of wood that goes into it, the quality of the tuning machines, etc.
As for serious defects, well I wouldn't by any guitar with any serious defects!
# 2
get a lower end one by a good maker. Electric guitars have more adjustments on them (string height,intonation,etc) so it's easier to get a slightly duff cheap electric to play better whereas with a classical or spanish guitar it's difficult to alter the string height or intonation - and budget makers can get it wrong in the first place.
Check out some Yamahas as they are usually excellent.
Personally, if i wanted a "spanish" guitar - i'd go for an ordinary steel strung acoustic with a single cutaway, so you can reach the higher frets, and replace the strings with classical ones.
My reasons for saying this are that
1.)Classical guitars don't generally have truss rods and you can't use steel strings on them (if you ever wanted too) or you'll likely warp the neck. - if you put classical strings on a previously steel strung guitar you'll probably have to take some tension off the truss rod as the lighter strings won't put enough tension on the neck.
2.) Classical guitars don't seem to come with cutaways, so they are buggers to reach the high frets on.
3.) The tuners on steel stung acoustics seem to be stronger and are closed backed.
This is only my opinion and is based on limited knowledge of classical guitars.
Check out some Yamahas as they are usually excellent.
Personally, if i wanted a "spanish" guitar - i'd go for an ordinary steel strung acoustic with a single cutaway, so you can reach the higher frets, and replace the strings with classical ones.
My reasons for saying this are that
1.)Classical guitars don't generally have truss rods and you can't use steel strings on them (if you ever wanted too) or you'll likely warp the neck. - if you put classical strings on a previously steel strung guitar you'll probably have to take some tension off the truss rod as the lighter strings won't put enough tension on the neck.
2.) Classical guitars don't seem to come with cutaways, so they are buggers to reach the high frets on.
3.) The tuners on steel stung acoustics seem to be stronger and are closed backed.
This is only my opinion and is based on limited knowledge of classical guitars.
Accuracy,you say? hmm interesting concept..
# 3
I'm not familiar with the characteristics that are particular to classic guitars. I offer some things I look for in steel-string acoustics.
-Thump several places on the body with the side of your thumb. Don't use your finger tip, because you do not want to scratch the finish with your nail. There should be no hint of buzzing sounds which would indicate that something is loose.
-Inside the guitar is where the attention to detail, (or lack of it), shows up. Get an inspection mirror at a hardware store or a car parts store. This is a bigger version of the kind of mirror a dentist uses. These things are handy for checking the inside of a guitar. Poke it into the sound hole and take a look around. The glue joints should be neat and tidy... no gaps or globs of sqeeze-out. Any cracked braces are cause to leave the guitar in the shop, and move on.
-Look closely at everything! Glue joints at the bridge and neck should be free of gaps or squeeze-out. Marquetry should be smooth and crisp, no decals! The tuners should operate smoothly. The strings should sit no more than half-way into the nut. The ends of the frets should not have any sharp edges. There should be no 'belly' on the body (caused by tension on the bridge pulling the top of the body outwards). The neck should be straight and flat, no twist, and only a very little bow.
-If you're still interested in it, you can play. By now, you should already know what kind of sound you are seeking. A good guitar will deliver this. A great guitar will come alive in your hands. If you can possibly afford it, find youself a great guitar! Save up while you look for it. May your search and your savings come together for you.
-Thump several places on the body with the side of your thumb. Don't use your finger tip, because you do not want to scratch the finish with your nail. There should be no hint of buzzing sounds which would indicate that something is loose.
-Inside the guitar is where the attention to detail, (or lack of it), shows up. Get an inspection mirror at a hardware store or a car parts store. This is a bigger version of the kind of mirror a dentist uses. These things are handy for checking the inside of a guitar. Poke it into the sound hole and take a look around. The glue joints should be neat and tidy... no gaps or globs of sqeeze-out. Any cracked braces are cause to leave the guitar in the shop, and move on.
-Look closely at everything! Glue joints at the bridge and neck should be free of gaps or squeeze-out. Marquetry should be smooth and crisp, no decals! The tuners should operate smoothly. The strings should sit no more than half-way into the nut. The ends of the frets should not have any sharp edges. There should be no 'belly' on the body (caused by tension on the bridge pulling the top of the body outwards). The neck should be straight and flat, no twist, and only a very little bow.
-If you're still interested in it, you can play. By now, you should already know what kind of sound you are seeking. A good guitar will deliver this. A great guitar will come alive in your hands. If you can possibly afford it, find youself a great guitar! Save up while you look for it. May your search and your savings come together for you.
# 4
Thanks a lot, Lordathestrings...you made things more clear in my mind. But a friend of mine mentioned something about the distance between the strings and the bar. Should the distance be equal along the strings ? and how far should they be? Thanks.
Sherif Shaaban (Dr_Frankenstein™)
# 5
Originally posted by sherif_shaabanI'm not sure what this means. If you mean the distance between the strings and the frets, that is something called the 'action' of the guitar.
... a friend of mine mentioned something about the distance between the strings and the bar...
James spoke true with his advice. Classic guitars need to have more space between the strings and the frets (higher action) because the nylon strings move more than steel strings when they vibrate. The space beneath an unfretted (open) string should be somewhat greater at the body end of the finger board than at the nut. The space under the thickest string should be a little more than under the thinnest string.
If you hold a string down at the first fret and the fret closest to the bridge, there should be some space between the string and the frets between these two points. This shows how much 'bow' the neck has.
Take note of these dimensions when you are trying out various guitars. This will help you build up some clear ideas of what you prefer and what you wish to avoid.
Happy hunting!
# 6
I dont know if you have that brand where you live, but Levins more expensive guitars are really really good.
I have one that is hand-built here in Sweden and it costed me about 650$. I know its alot more than what people want to spend but then you get a guitar that ,if you take care of it, sounds fantastic for at least 50-70 years
So to me, it was worth the extra cash, because it sounds
perfect; crystal clear, sharp but still soft sound, its got it all. Im sure they dont have swedish-built guitars, but check out some levin guitars.
One more advice:
Spend!
If you want a good guitar, do not compare the pricetags, compare the quality.
Because if you buy a bad acoustic, its very hard to alter it. If you buy a bad electric, you can get pretty good sound anyway by using different effects, amps and so on.
This is impossible with an acoustic.
If you've bought a bad sound, you're stuck with it.
So dont be afraid to spend some money if you're serious with your guitar-playing.
good luck!
I have one that is hand-built here in Sweden and it costed me about 650$. I know its alot more than what people want to spend but then you get a guitar that ,if you take care of it, sounds fantastic for at least 50-70 years
So to me, it was worth the extra cash, because it sounds
perfect; crystal clear, sharp but still soft sound, its got it all. Im sure they dont have swedish-built guitars, but check out some levin guitars.
One more advice:
Spend!
If you want a good guitar, do not compare the pricetags, compare the quality.
Because if you buy a bad acoustic, its very hard to alter it. If you buy a bad electric, you can get pretty good sound anyway by using different effects, amps and so on.
This is impossible with an acoustic.
If you've bought a bad sound, you're stuck with it.
So dont be afraid to spend some money if you're serious with your guitar-playing.
good luck!
# 7
Thanks guys :) as for the brand thing, it's not that easy to ask for a particular guitar brand here (I'm from Egypt by the way)...you just have to search for a good guitar until you find one. This is maily because people who play musical instruments, either for fun - like me - or professionally, are very few. But I completely agree with mc9mm that quality must be the first priority, because my cheap old guitar sounds really horrible :) Thanks again ...:)
Sherif Shaaban (Dr_Frankenstein™)
# 8
I can recommend two types of guitars (nylonstring)
First, the "Frameworks"
FRAMEWORKS
its an amazing instrument
and second
the Godin ACS series
GODIN ACS
also one very fine guitar (i have it)
i prefer the picuped nylonstrings, for they are much easier to record and they are very comfortable to play - and they have a great sound!
-=[Azrael]=-
First, the "Frameworks"
FRAMEWORKS
its an amazing instrument
and second
the Godin ACS series
GODIN ACS
also one very fine guitar (i have it)
i prefer the picuped nylonstrings, for they are much easier to record and they are very comfortable to play - and they have a great sound!
-=[Azrael]=-
[FONT=Times New Roman]Holiness is in right action and courage on behalf of those who cannot defend themselves. What you decide to do every day makes you a good person... or not.[/FONT][br][br]
# 9
