Hey!!! Questionable Tuning!!!

Can someone tell me a consistent equation or hypothesis for tuning regarding the best combination of strings (manufacturer, type, and thickness) with the use of a nut locking device (if there is a technical name for this device, please bear with me) for an Ibanez GRG-170DX?

I'm stumped!! I have an electronic tuner and it's a nice one integral to a pedal system built by Digitech. The problem is I have this combination of light strings coupled with the use of a light pick and a tuning equation other than LOW to HIGH E to acquire consistent tuning. Whewww!!

Anyway, if there is a thread somewhere else here where I can study this situation with an added post to perhaps relate to this problem, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!

I don't really know how much you know, so ill tell you what i know...

It doesn't really matter so much what strings you use... I'd reccomend probaly a set of 10's or maybe 9's if you prefer lighter ones. I usually use ernie ball 10's- but I've never noticed a difference really. Something to note is that the strings will go out of tune the first few times you tune up the guitar, so don't worry about that.

Because the guitar doesn't have a locking floyd rose style tremolo system (whammy bar system), almost any use of the whammy bar will put the guitar a little out of tune, i don't think a locking nut would help.

Originally Posted by: ClassicRock64
I'm stumped!! I have an electronic tuner and it's a nice one integral to a pedal system built by Digitech.

Digitech rp-80 maybe? I got one :cool:.

The problem is I have this combination of light strings coupled with the use of a light pick and a tuning equation other than LOW to HIGH E to acquire consistent tuning. Whewww!!

What is your tuning equation? Standard tuning is Eadgbe (Low to high). Forgive me if you already knew that.

Anyways...good luck in your quest for tunage. Hope this helps.

I might be reading into this too much here. You mentioned a locking nut. This leads me to believe you have either a floyd rose or kahler trem on the other end. Further guessing, I'm thinking you can't keep your guitar in tune. Now assuming these guesses are all true I have the following advice.

1. If you don't already have patience, develop it or take the guitar to a pro.
2. You need to understand how these trem systems operate
3. You need to balance the string tension and the trem spring tension to be perfect when all strings are in tune.

So what to do?

#1 You're on your own. This is just something you'll have to learn to develop if you want to set up a floating trem.

#2 All these trems operate is basically the same way. Strings tuned to let's say standard 440 A have a constant tension, but the floating trem wants to pull forward under this tension. To compensate all trems have springs in the back of the guitar. These springs also have adjustments. There are screws the can add or remove spring tension.

#3 The trick is to tune up, play, adjust the springs toward the nut ( tighten) if you keep going flat, loosen the springs if you go sharp. You'll have to repeat this over andd over again till you get it just right. SEE #1 PATIENCE

It takes time the more trems you do the faster you can do them, but the first one will take alot of time.

Ok, now tell me I missed the topic entirely :)

Eric, Ardvark, thanks...very excellent advice. I have homework to do with this. Thanks again for posting. This tuning science is particularly fascinating to me as well as the trem system on my Ibanez Axe!!!

You've shed quite a bit of light on this... :rolleyes:

No prob bud..It's what we're here for.

But...I looked up the guit on zzsounds.com, and it looks to me that it does not have a floyd-type locking trem. Im not sure if a locking nut would help you here.

Is this your guitar?
...If it is, like Creta said that tunes just like a normal guitar.

anyways man, I dont wanna sound rude or anything, but I think you're thinking about guitar a bit too technically. there really isnt many specific equations/hypothesis, its not really a science. Its all about how the instrument feels to you. If you like thick strings, you put on thick strings, and viceversa with thin strings. theres tons of different tunings and ways to play the instrument- there really isnt an end to the possibilities with a guitar.

so what I'm really saying, is take the guitar for what it is- a personal instrument to be played to your preferences, not an equation; you know what I'm saying?

Originally Posted by: rockonn91Is this your guitar?

If that really is your guitar, the tremolo isn't a floating/locking one as described by ardvark, but the main points he raised still apply. However I'll also point out that on "regular" trems (those that only dive down) that every individual point of contact for the strings is one place to start investigating: bridge saddles, nut, string trees (if applicable), and even how you wrap around the peg.

While tuning, if you turn a peg and notice the pitch suddenly jumps (either way), it's prolly getting pinched or just snagged at one of those points. If so, even when you get it tuned, as soon as you use the trem or even do wide bends and change the tension, it may catch again at one of those points and go out of tune.
One method to help alleviate this is to lubricate these points (and possibly even those areas of the string) with graphite, a pencil for instance. Otherwise they now market nuts, saddles, and trees specifically for this issue...namely Graphtec products. Even though I don't have a trem on my SG, I still had that problem with my G string catching at the nut. Replacing it with a Graphtec cured it instantly.

Originally Posted by: R. Shackleferd...I still had that problem with my G string catching at the nut...

Did I just say that? :D